Posts Tagged ‘Plants’

Protect Your Plants!

December 5th, 2009

The devices and implements used for fighting plant enemies are of two sorts:
(1) those used to afford mechanical protection to the plants;
(2) those used to apply insecticides and fungicides.
Of the first the most useful is the covered frame. It consists usually of a wooden box, some eighteen inches to two feet square and about eight high, covered with glass, protecting cloth, mosquito netting or mosquito wire. The first two coverings have, of course, the additional advantage of retaining heat and protecting from cold, making it possible by their use to plant earlier than is otherwise safe. They are used extensively in getting an extra early and safe start with cucumbers, melons and the other vine vegetables.
Simpler devices for protecting newly-set plants, such as tomatoes or cabbage, from the cut-worm, are stiff, tin, cardboard or tar paper collars, which are made several inches high and large enough to be put around the stem and penetrate an inch or so into the soil.
For applying poison powders, the home gardener should supply himself with a powder gun. If one must be restricted to a single implement, however, it will be best to get one of the hand-power, compressed-air sprayers. These are used for applying wet sprays, and should be supplied with one of the several forms of mist-making nozzles, the non-cloggable automatic type being the best. For more extensive work a barrel pump, mounted on wheels, will be desirable, but one of the above will do a great deal of work in little time. Extension rods for use in spraying trees and vines may be obtained for either. For operations on a very small scale a good hand-syringe may be used, but as a general thing it will be best to invest a few dollars more and get a small tank sprayer, as this throws a continuous stream or spray and holds a much larger amount of the spraying solution. Whatever type is procured, get a brass machine it will out-wear three or four of those made of cheaper metal, which succumbs very quickly to the, corroding action of the strong poisons and chemicals used in them.
Of implements for harvesting, beside the spade, prong-hoe and spading- fork, very few are used in the small garden, as most of them need not only long rows to be economically used, but horse- power also. The onion harvester attachment for the double wheel hoe, may be used with advantage in loosening onions, beets, turnips, etc., from the soil or for cutting spinach. Running the hand- plow close on either side of carrots, parsnips and other deep-growing vegetables will aid materially in getting them out. For fruit picking, with tall trees, the wire-fingered fruit-picker, secured to the end of a long handle, will be of great assistance, but with the modern method of using low-headed trees it will not be needed.
Another class of garden implements are those used in pruning but where this is attended to properly from the start, a good sharp jack-knife and a pair of pruning shears will easily handle all the work of the kind necessary.
Still another sort of garden device is that used for supporting the plants; such as stakes, trellises, wires, etc. Altogether too little attention usually is given these, as with proper care in storing over winter they will not only last for years, but add greatly to the convenience of cultivation and to the neat appearance of the garden.
As a final word to the intending purchaser of garden tools, I would say: first thoroughly investigate the different sorts available, and when buying, do not forget that a good tool or a well-made machine will be giving you satisfactory use long, long after the price is forgotten, while a poor one is a constant source of discomfort. Get good tools, and take good care of them. And let me repeat that a few dollars a year, judiciously spent, for tools afterward well cared for, will soon give you a very complete set, and add to your garden profit and pleasure.

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Fighting Plant Enemies

December 5th, 2009

fighting plant enemies.
The devices and implements used for fighting plant enemies are of two sorts:
(1) those used to afford mechanical protection to the plants;
(2) those used to apply insecticides and fungicides.
Of the first the most useful is the covered frame. It consists usually of a wooden box, some eighteen inches to two feet square and about eight high, covered with glass, protecting cloth, mosquito netting or mosquito wire. The first two coverings have, of course, the additional advantage of retaining heat and protecting from cold, making it possible by their use to plant earlier than is otherwise safe. They are used extensively in getting an extra early and safe start with cucumbers, melons and the other vine vegetables.
Simpler devices for protecting newly-set plants, such as tomatoes or cabbage, from the cut-worm, are stiff, tin, cardboard or tar paper collars, which are made several inches high and large enough to be put around the stem and penetrate an inch or so into the soil.
For applying poison powders, the home gardener should supply himself with a powder gun. If one must be restricted to a single implement, however, it will be best to get one of the hand-power, compressed-air sprayers. These are used for applying wet sprays, and should be supplied with one of the several forms of mist-making nozzles, the non-cloggable automatic type being the best. For more extensive work a barrel pump, mounted on wheels, will be desirable, but one of the above will do a great deal of work in little time. Extension rods for use in spraying trees and vines may be obtained for either. For operations on a very small scale a good hand-syringe may be used, but as a general thing it will be best to invest a few dollars more and get a small tank sprayer, as this throws a continuous stream or spray and holds a much larger amount of the spraying solution. Whatever type is procured, get a brass machine it will out-wear three or four of those made of cheaper metal, which succumbs very quickly to the, corroding action of the strong poisons and chemicals used in them.
Of implements for harvesting, beside the spade, prong-hoe and spading- fork, very few are used in the small garden, as most of them need not only long rows to be economically used, but horse- power also. The onion harvester attachment for the double wheel hoe, may be used with advantage in loosening onions, beets, turnips, etc., from the soil or for cutting spinach. Running the hand- plow close on either side of carrots, parsnips and other deep-growing vegetables will aid materially in getting them out. For fruit picking, with tall trees, the wire-fingered fruit-picker, secured to the end of a long handle, will be of great assistance, but with the modern method of using low-headed trees it will not be needed.
Another class of garden implements are those used in pruning but where this is attended to properly from the start, a good sharp jack-knife and a pair of pruning shears will easily handle all the work of the kind necessary.
Still another sort of garden device is that used for supporting the plants; such as stakes, trellises, wires, etc. Altogether too little attention usually is given these, as with proper care in storing over winter they will not only last for years, but add greatly to the convenience of cultivation and to the neat appearance of the garden.
As a final word to the intending purchaser of garden tools, I would say: first thoroughly investigate the different sorts available, and when buying, do not forget that a good tool or a well-made machine will be giving you satisfactory use long, long after the price is forgotten, while a poor one is a constant source of discomfort. Get good tools, and take good care of them. And let me repeat that a few dollars a year, judiciously spent, for tools afterward well cared for, will soon give you a very complete set, and add to your garden profit and pleasure.

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Factors that Influence Successful Seed Plant Propagation

December 5th, 2009

When choosing seed plant propagation, every gardener wants to create optimal conditions for their plants to get off to a good start. There is a lot that goes into germination, and if even one factor is missing, it can have profound effects on your entire crop. Here are the factors that most greatly influence how well your seeds will germinate.
Water – Soaking up water is the first step in germination and therefore successful seed plant propagation, so it should be at the forefront of the mind of any hydroponic gardener. The factors that influence water uptake are the amount of water available in the medium and the thickness and density of the seed covering. You can increase water uptake by making sure that you choose a medium that holds water well. Rockwool, for example, is a very popular choice for exactly this reason. You can also treat your seeds in a number of ways to weaken the shell. These techniques can be as simple as using sandpaper to make the shell thinner to as advanced and complex as soaking the seeds in acid until the shells are worn off.
Temperature – A favorable temperature is also essential for germination. This can be tricky, as optimal temperature can change from plant to plant; the best temperatures for germination are usually a little higher than the best temperatures for seedlings. Optimal germination temperatures can range as low as seventy or seventy-five degrees F for plants such as lettuce, celery, spinach and asparagus. Those that thrive in the middle of the range, about eighty to eighty five degrees, include cabbage, tomatoes, turnips, beans and peppers. On the high end, with plants that do will in temperatures of up to ninety five degrees, you will find squash, watermelon and pumpkin.
You must be cautious about it getting too hot in your grow room. Temperatures of over one hundred degrees have shown to kill seeds in less than a day. Even instances where seeds can survive in such high temperatures, it may suck the moisture away from the medium, making it more difficult for your seeds to germinate. This is why purchasing a couple auxiliary fans attached to a thermostat is a smart investment if you happen to live a particularly warm part of the world.
Oxygen – The rate of respiration increases in the seed dramatically during germination. This means that there is an increased need for oxygen. You may try to keep your grow area well ventilated to prevent it from becoming too stuffy, and use fans to circulate the air.
Light – Light is vital at all stages of plant development, and germination is no exception. Make certain that your seeds are not planted so deep within your medium that they do not receive adequate light. At this early stage and through the seedling stage, it is possible to use a completely white light source, such as florescent or white LED lights. Past that, however, you will need to switch to colored LED lights or high intensity discharge (HID) lights.

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Starting Seeds For Your Spring Planting

December 1st, 2009

Have you noticed how expensive nursery – bought plants are these days? You can avoid spending your hard earned money. With a little planning and some small effort you can grow your own plants from seed. It’s simple and fun.

Spring is almost here – now is the time to get started. If you have children here is an excellent way to pique their interest in gardening. Kids do love learning new things and you will be cultivating a life long habit.

First, plan your garden. Determine what kind and how many of each plant you want to grow. Take into account such factors as sun, soil, and the length of the growing season in your area. Not all plants are suitable for all areas. (Most seed packs have charts to give you tips as to suitability for your region.) Plant some extras – not every seed will sprout.

Will you be growing your own vegetables this year? Consider doing so organically. Want some fresh tomatoes all summer? How about some herbs or peppers? These and others can be started now to plant in a month or so in your garden. I like to start my own tomatoes as I can pick the varieties I want to stagger the yields throughout the summer and into the fall.

I start my summer flowers now to ensure I have plenty to put in hanging baskets and in the garden; I always have a few spares in case I need to replace any plant that dies or is eaten by a wayward rabbit or voracious caterpillar.

When you purchase your seeds, don’t buy the cheapest ones as they may not be as good as those costing a few dimes more. There are good seed companies out there such as Burpee, Park, and others. Buy a reputable company’s seeds. Check the dates on the seed packs to be sure they have not expired although I have successfully grown seeds from packages I’ve kept from the past year.

To begin you will need a good quality planting mix. Most nurseries carry a seed starting mix which is ideal. The soil should be light and somewhat fine. Don’t use composted manures as they are too nitrogen rich for your seeds at this point and will burn them. I add dry worm castings to the mix to provide organic, slow release, gentle food for the seeds as they germinate.

You will need small individual pots to plant them in. You can buy these reasonably priced at nurseries or garden centers. There are even biodegradable pots made from cow manure and even worm castings which allow you to plant them directly into the ground when your seedlings have grown enough and the outdoor temperatures will allow it. However, I am forever saving little pots such as yogurt containers and the like from my own home and reusing them. See, you can recycle this way and save yourself money, too. Great lesson for your kids to observe. Not everything goes into the garbage!

When you are ready to go, soak your seeds overnight in a solution of liquid worm castings (worm tea). You might even warm the solution to just above room temperature. I use an organic product containing yucca extract because yucca is a wetting agent. It makes water ‘wetter’ and will soften the seed pods and allow the seed embryos to absorb some nutrients while still in their pod. This procedure will speed up the germination period of the seed by sometimes half. (For instance, I’ve soaked pansy seeds with a 14 – 17 day germination period; they were up in 5 days.)

Fill your planting pots about ¾ full with your planting mix moistening the soil generously but not to the point it is soggy. (Be sure your pots have ample drainage holes in them.) Tap them lightly to settle the soil removing any air pockets.

Once your seeds have soaked for at least eight hours, and not much longer, you are ready to plant them. Pay close attention to the planting instructions on the package and follow them. Don’t plant too deeply nor too shallow. You needn’t be exact to the point of worry, but try to be within a reasonable measure of what’s suggested. Plant up to three seeds per container as you can cull out the excess plants later keeping the biggest and healthiest.

After you’ve planted your seeds, cover the containers with a clear plastic baggie such as any zip lock freezer bags. Put the baggie on from the top with the opening at the bottom of the pot. You needn’t seal it as you will need to allow for some circulation. Doing this creates your own ‘green house’ for each individual pot. Moisture stays in and condenses on the baggie dripping back into the soil. Also, the temperature is warm and the air moist inside the bag.

Place the planted pots outside, if possible, into a well lit area though be careful of direct sunlight as you do not want the little ‘green house’ you have created to overheat. If you are in a cold climate and the outside temperature dips at night, keep your little ‘babies’ inside perhaps near a window for light. I like to put mine on a window sill, but not one where the exposure to sun is excessive. Some use grow lights, but this is unnecessary and defeats the purpose of saving you money.

Keep a close eye on your efforts. You will shortly see your seeds peek up from the soil – an exhilarating moment for you. You have created life! You will notice droplets of water on the inside of the baggies; this is good. If not, check the soil moisture. If it is drying, use a hand held spray bottle and spray with water until moist. I dilute a liquid worm castings solution and spray with that. It will not burn the seedlings and will give them a slight feeding at a young age.

You will be amazed at how fast your seedlings grow. Within weeks they will be ready to plant outside in your garden. You have done it – you are now a master gardener. Happy gardening and enjoy the money you have saved.

(More information on gardening organically and using worm castings/worm tea is available at www.naturesbigbud.com.)

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Growing and Caring for Tomatoes – Tips You Should Know

November 19th, 2009

The most popular plant that is grown in the home garden is the tomato. Most gardeners take more pride in growing tomatoes than any other crop. There is nothing like a ripe, juicy, fresh grown tomato.

There is a large variety of tomatoes that can be grown by the home gardener and they all have there own unique characteristics or qualities. That can be for there size, color, shape or taste. There are tomatoes that hybrids, heirlooms and plants that are indeterminate or determinate. The selections that you can choose from seem to be endless.

Tomatoes are easy to grow and will produce a large amount of fruit if properly cared for. There are a few basic tips that you should know that will help your tomato plants thrive and produce a high yielding crop.

Tomatoes like a good healthy soil that is full of organic matter and nutrients along with a good soil structure that provides good aeration, drainage and retains moisture well.

Never start your plants to early. Tomatoes like warm soil temperatures. If needed warm the soil two weeks before planting by covering with black plastic.

Direct sunlight is very important in growing a strong healthy tomato plant. Tomatoes should be planted in an area that will receive a minimum of eight hours of direct sunlight.

Preparation of the planting location is also very important. Bury your tomato plants deep, burying the stem a minimum of half it’s total height. It takes a little more time to plant this way but the growth and productivity of the plant will be rewarding. When planting tomato plants deep it gives them the ability to form roots that will branch off of the stem. This will give the plant a big advantage of forming a large healthy root system which benefits it’s nutrient intake greatly.

Give your plants enough room to grow. Plant tomatoes a minimum of two to three feet apart depending on the variety. This will allow for the proper air circulation and direct sunlight needed for the plants to thrive.

Watering of tomatoes is very critical. Tomatoes need a steady moisture content in the soil. Over watering or letting the soil dry out will stress the plant and cause the fruit to produce poorly.

Applying a good organic mulch like compost will greatly benefit the plants growth by retaining the moisture content in the soil while adding nutrients to the soil at the same time.

Tomatoes love a regular supply of nutrients. having a good healthy nutrient rich soil full of organic matter is the type of soil that tomatoes will thrive in. Watering your plants every two weeks with a nutrient rich compost tea will greatly boost the productivity of the fruit the plant will produce.

With a little care you can have the best home grown tomatoes in your own back yard.

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