Fighting Plant Enemies

December 5th, 2009 by posted by green tomato fingers No comments »

fighting plant enemies.
The devices and implements used for fighting plant enemies are of two sorts:
(1) those used to afford mechanical protection to the plants;
(2) those used to apply insecticides and fungicides.
Of the first the most useful is the covered frame. It consists usually of a wooden box, some eighteen inches to two feet square and about eight high, covered with glass, protecting cloth, mosquito netting or mosquito wire. The first two coverings have, of course, the additional advantage of retaining heat and protecting from cold, making it possible by their use to plant earlier than is otherwise safe. They are used extensively in getting an extra early and safe start with cucumbers, melons and the other vine vegetables.
Simpler devices for protecting newly-set plants, such as tomatoes or cabbage, from the cut-worm, are stiff, tin, cardboard or tar paper collars, which are made several inches high and large enough to be put around the stem and penetrate an inch or so into the soil.
For applying poison powders, the home gardener should supply himself with a powder gun. If one must be restricted to a single implement, however, it will be best to get one of the hand-power, compressed-air sprayers. These are used for applying wet sprays, and should be supplied with one of the several forms of mist-making nozzles, the non-cloggable automatic type being the best. For more extensive work a barrel pump, mounted on wheels, will be desirable, but one of the above will do a great deal of work in little time. Extension rods for use in spraying trees and vines may be obtained for either. For operations on a very small scale a good hand-syringe may be used, but as a general thing it will be best to invest a few dollars more and get a small tank sprayer, as this throws a continuous stream or spray and holds a much larger amount of the spraying solution. Whatever type is procured, get a brass machine it will out-wear three or four of those made of cheaper metal, which succumbs very quickly to the, corroding action of the strong poisons and chemicals used in them.
Of implements for harvesting, beside the spade, prong-hoe and spading- fork, very few are used in the small garden, as most of them need not only long rows to be economically used, but horse- power also. The onion harvester attachment for the double wheel hoe, may be used with advantage in loosening onions, beets, turnips, etc., from the soil or for cutting spinach. Running the hand- plow close on either side of carrots, parsnips and other deep-growing vegetables will aid materially in getting them out. For fruit picking, with tall trees, the wire-fingered fruit-picker, secured to the end of a long handle, will be of great assistance, but with the modern method of using low-headed trees it will not be needed.
Another class of garden implements are those used in pruning but where this is attended to properly from the start, a good sharp jack-knife and a pair of pruning shears will easily handle all the work of the kind necessary.
Still another sort of garden device is that used for supporting the plants; such as stakes, trellises, wires, etc. Altogether too little attention usually is given these, as with proper care in storing over winter they will not only last for years, but add greatly to the convenience of cultivation and to the neat appearance of the garden.
As a final word to the intending purchaser of garden tools, I would say: first thoroughly investigate the different sorts available, and when buying, do not forget that a good tool or a well-made machine will be giving you satisfactory use long, long after the price is forgotten, while a poor one is a constant source of discomfort. Get good tools, and take good care of them. And let me repeat that a few dollars a year, judiciously spent, for tools afterward well cared for, will soon give you a very complete set, and add to your garden profit and pleasure.

Share and Enjoy:
  • Digg
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • NewsVine
  • Reddit
  • StumbleUpon
  • Google Bookmarks
  • Yahoo! Buzz
  • Twitter
  • Technorati
  • Live
  • LinkedIn
  • MySpace

Factors that Influence Successful Seed Plant Propagation

December 5th, 2009 by posted by green tomato fingers No comments »

When choosing seed plant propagation, every gardener wants to create optimal conditions for their plants to get off to a good start. There is a lot that goes into germination, and if even one factor is missing, it can have profound effects on your entire crop. Here are the factors that most greatly influence how well your seeds will germinate.
Water – Soaking up water is the first step in germination and therefore successful seed plant propagation, so it should be at the forefront of the mind of any hydroponic gardener. The factors that influence water uptake are the amount of water available in the medium and the thickness and density of the seed covering. You can increase water uptake by making sure that you choose a medium that holds water well. Rockwool, for example, is a very popular choice for exactly this reason. You can also treat your seeds in a number of ways to weaken the shell. These techniques can be as simple as using sandpaper to make the shell thinner to as advanced and complex as soaking the seeds in acid until the shells are worn off.
Temperature – A favorable temperature is also essential for germination. This can be tricky, as optimal temperature can change from plant to plant; the best temperatures for germination are usually a little higher than the best temperatures for seedlings. Optimal germination temperatures can range as low as seventy or seventy-five degrees F for plants such as lettuce, celery, spinach and asparagus. Those that thrive in the middle of the range, about eighty to eighty five degrees, include cabbage, tomatoes, turnips, beans and peppers. On the high end, with plants that do will in temperatures of up to ninety five degrees, you will find squash, watermelon and pumpkin.
You must be cautious about it getting too hot in your grow room. Temperatures of over one hundred degrees have shown to kill seeds in less than a day. Even instances where seeds can survive in such high temperatures, it may suck the moisture away from the medium, making it more difficult for your seeds to germinate. This is why purchasing a couple auxiliary fans attached to a thermostat is a smart investment if you happen to live a particularly warm part of the world.
Oxygen – The rate of respiration increases in the seed dramatically during germination. This means that there is an increased need for oxygen. You may try to keep your grow area well ventilated to prevent it from becoming too stuffy, and use fans to circulate the air.
Light – Light is vital at all stages of plant development, and germination is no exception. Make certain that your seeds are not planted so deep within your medium that they do not receive adequate light. At this early stage and through the seedling stage, it is possible to use a completely white light source, such as florescent or white LED lights. Past that, however, you will need to switch to colored LED lights or high intensity discharge (HID) lights.

Share and Enjoy:
  • Digg
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • NewsVine
  • Reddit
  • StumbleUpon
  • Google Bookmarks
  • Yahoo! Buzz
  • Twitter
  • Technorati
  • Live
  • LinkedIn
  • MySpace

Unknown Facts About Vegetable Planting Guide Made Known

December 3rd, 2009 by posted by green tomato fingers No comments »

It is important to have a vegetable planting guide so that you can be sure you are planting all of the right vegetables in the right areas. There are some things that your vegetable planting guide should include so that you can have the best garden possible.
First of all, find a guide that talks about what should be in sun and what should be in shade. Tomatoes should always be in full sun, but other fruits and vegetables need to have partial shade during parts of the day. You want a vegetable planting guide that can give you a good idea of what these plants and vegetables might be, and how you can best plant them in your garden.
Next, look at a vegetable planting guide to determine what types of watering systems you are going to need for your garden, and how to best use them. You want to be sure that your garden gets all of the proper water, and this should include the areas that need more water as well as those that need less.
Your vegetable planting guide should help you figure out what you can plant in lower areas that will get more water, and what you should plant in higher areas that would not get as much. This way, you can be sure that the vegetables you have planted with be able to thrive like they should.
Another important factor in your vegetable planting guide should be the idea that you want to see pictures of the various plants so that you can recognize them. Your guide should include these photos for you, and you want to take a careful look at them to be sure that they are what you need.
Then, you want to be sure that you have marked the rows where you have planted certain crops, so that the crops that you plant can have the best chance of survival. This is very important, as it is vital that you know where each of the plants is. The vegetable planting guide will also help you see when the plants come up, so that you don’t get them confused with weeds. You want to get rid of the weeds, and at the same time, you want to keep the plants that will grow up for you.
Your vegetable planting guide should have lots of great information about what to plant and where. Things like corn must be planted with other corn stalks, and other fruits and vegetables need to be near one another. If you follow the suggestions in your planting guide, you will have a great garden.

Share and Enjoy:
  • Digg
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • NewsVine
  • Reddit
  • StumbleUpon
  • Google Bookmarks
  • Yahoo! Buzz
  • Twitter
  • Technorati
  • Live
  • LinkedIn
  • MySpace

How to Create Microclimates for Your Plants

December 3rd, 2009 by posted by green tomato fingers No comments »

Many gardeners live in areas where almost anything can grow effortlessly. Just plant the seeds and water it for a few weeks, and you’ve got a beautifully lush plant. But if you live in somewhere like Colorado, you’ll understand what its like to have a slim selection of plants that naturally grow. It can be quite a challenge to facilitate the growth of a large variety of plants, especially when the very world you live in seems to be rooting against you. Some people solve this problem by loading up their plants with every type of chemical and fertilizer known to man. This usually works, but to me it seems kind of unnatural to rely on man made materials to keep your plants alive. Also, if I’m growing fruits or vegetables, I don’t feel very comfortable eating something that is entirely composed of chemicals. A gardening theory that I have relied on in the past to grow many types of plants is that of creating a “microclimate” for each type of plant. This is when you regulate the sunlight, shade, moisture, and wind factors for each separate plant. It sounds like a challenge, and it is. But you can regulate these factors in such a way that the plant feels just like it is in the ideal growing conditions. This can be achieved by the use of wind barriers, shading umbrellas, extra water, or different types or amounts of compost. If you’re ready to make an attempt at creating microclimates, you’ll need to make a detailed plan in advanced. You should start by finding a large shade providing bush or tree that will grow fast and naturally in your area. Just look at some undeveloped plots of land and see what is there. Most likely it grew on its own without any planting or care. This is what you want to happen. Usually the growing of one plant can bring about the growing of another more desirable plant. If you have a fence in your backyard (you would be surprised at how many people don’t) then you already have a good amount of shade to work with. You can start the microclimate process using just the shade of the fence, combined with (perhaps) a screen or large bush to shade your new plant for the other half of the day that the fence doesn’t take care of. The fence is also useful for shading against wind for very fragile plants. Once you have established the shade, be it natural or unnatural, you have created a slightly less harsh miniature environment. You must remember this is a gradual process, and find a new plant to put in the shade of the other one. Now your choices are a little more open. You don’t have to go with a rugged plant like the one you did before; you can now choose a plant that survives in cooler weather. If the plant you are trying to grow next requires more moisture in the air than your area provides, installing a fountain or small pond can fix this problem due to the evaporation. You may think you don’t want to waste water on a pond or fountain, but it’s all going toward the betterment of your garden. It’s just like the watering process, only indirect. As an added benefit, usually fountains are quite aesthetically attractive and a great addition to your garden. I can’t explain every stage of the process, because everyone’s goals and setups are slightly different. But to reach your goal, you should do research on every plant that you would like to have in your garden. Find out everything you can about the zone that it flourishes in, and ask yourself how you can emulate that zone within your own backyard. Almost always you can take control of the environment and recreate whatever you wish. Usually all it takes is some planning and strategy.

Share and Enjoy:
  • Digg
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • NewsVine
  • Reddit
  • StumbleUpon
  • Google Bookmarks
  • Yahoo! Buzz
  • Twitter
  • Technorati
  • Live
  • LinkedIn
  • MySpace

Plants Used As Insecticides

December 3rd, 2009 by posted by green tomato fingers No comments »

PLANTS USED AS  INSECTICIDES 

Plants have so many uses either as foods, feeds, medicines, and above all as insect repellants in the form of insecticides. In fact, almost anything that the human race needs always depend on plants. 

Insecticides that come from plants are much cheaper, less toxic as against the synthetic chemicals, and besides plant insecticides are environment friendly. 

The followings are among the plants that can be used as insect control: 

1. Tobacco – Nicotiana tabacum. The leaves are pounded or pulverized together with mint ad tomato leaves, pepper, garlic and onion. 

Formulation: 

 

 

2. Makabuhay –   This plant is a natural pesticides. This has been proven to be effective against brown plant hopper, green leafhopper, and rice stem borer. 

Procedure: 

 

 

 

3. Derris roots  -  Derris plant or “Tubli” in some parts of the Philippines especially in the Visayas and Mindanao provinces. It has a biodegradable insecticide known as rotenone. 

Procedure: 

 

3. Aromatic Herbs –  Mint, oregano, and other aromatic herbs traditionally used as spices may be planted around garden plots to repel insects. Experts recommends that for every 100-square-meter bed, 8-10 marigolds should be intercropped in the garden with 20-25 garlic or onion bulbs to discourage pests from attacking plants. 

Procedure: 

 

 

 

There are lots of plants that are used as insecticides. I will be publishing them in future issues. Just stick to me.

 

 

 

 

 

Cris Ramasasa is a freelance writer, retired horticulture teacher. Writes on home gardening and Internet marketing tips. Written ebooks, titled; “How to get Started in Flower Gardening” and “Vegetable Gardening Made Easy”. Subscribe his Free articles at: www.crisramasasa.com  

Share and Enjoy:
  • Digg
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • NewsVine
  • Reddit
  • StumbleUpon
  • Google Bookmarks
  • Yahoo! Buzz
  • Twitter
  • Technorati
  • Live
  • LinkedIn
  • MySpace